Riverhead is a hamlet within the town of Riverhead. That isn’t some opaque brain teaser; Long Island just likes to keep you on your toes. The hamlet functions as the town’s central business district and is bordered on the south by the mouth of the Peconic River, where the river comes to a head. Though most county offices moved west to Hauppage in the 1960s, Riverhead has remained the seat of Suffolk County since 1727. Yet, whether or not the long-proposed split into Peconic County occurs, Riverhead retains a best-of-both-worlds quality. Its southern half is a historic downtown area, a “metropolitan” setting with enticing eating and drinking options, parks to stretch out at, and museums to learn a thing or two. Meanwhile, the half of Riverhead above the appropriately named Middle Road has a more “country” vibe, home to various farms, vineyards, nurseries, and golf courses.